Donzoko

Most Japanese restaurants, especially in London, have an antiseptic sparsity to them, both in appearance and in the ubiquitous sushi- teriyaki- donburi menu choices. Donzoko makes a welcome change: billing itself as an izakaya (more or less a Japanese pub), it is crowded, boisterous and usually smoky. It also boasts a mind- bogglingly extensive menu.

Start with one of the roughly 20 sakes on offer: we liked the rich, unfiltered nigori sake (which looks cloudy), and the bracingly dry Otokomiyaki, from Hokkaido. Then just wander through the hundreds of small dishes on the menu (three per person usually works). Your correspondent has, on repeated visits, sampled around 30 dishes and never been disappointed, except by the sushi, which is fresh but sloppy. Standouts include pumpkin tempura, grilled mackerel, eggplant slathered with miso and garlic, grilled ox tongue, grilled dried chicken with garlic, and, to end the meal, ume chazuke: a comforting soup made from fish broth, rice, shredded seaweed and pickled plum.

Service is prompt, knowledgeable, and exceptionally friendly. It's best to go either in groups—intimate conversations tend to get swallowed up by the noise—or solo, when you can sit at the bar and watch the chefs at work. Booking becomes more necessary later in the week.

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Contact Information

Donzoko
15 Kingly St
W1B 5PS London

Tel. +442077341974