Shumi

For a dose of hip London dining, try Shumi in St James's. The creation of an up- and- coming restaurateur, Geoffrey Moore (son of Roger Moore, the star of many a James Bond film), Shumi strives to revive the jaded palate of the expense- account diner.

First, a word of warning: the doors that slide open to usher you in are just as quick to close, thus ensuring an undignified entrance into Shumi's buzzing ground- floor bar. While one of us tried to wrestle her shoulders free, the other managed to tug the doors open again. Unhappily, the incident was repeated on the way out.

Like Club Gascon, Shumi aims to titillate with experimental combinations, served in tapas portions meant for sharing. The emphasis, we were told, is on “authentic Italian” presented in a Japanese style. A battalion of black- clad staff served a procession of dainty dishes from different parts of the menu (carpaccios, tartares, salads, appetisers, scodellina and main courses).

The best part of eating at Shumi is the room itself. Bathed in a pink glow, with shimmering curtains draped over huge windows, the circular dining room resembles nothing so much as the luxury suite of a space- ship. If only the food were a bit more down to earth.

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Contact Information

Shumi
23 St James
SW1A 1HG London

Tel. +442077479380